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Alain Roux, culinary hero

View from the river at The Waterside Inn

Hard at work in his kitchen!

The terrace

Inside the scenic restaurant

'I often cook for the Queen'

Alain Roux, Chef Patron of the Waterside Inn in Bray, holds three Michelin stars, so I wasn't sure he would agree to an interview with me. But he did. Then I thought he might be a little aloof. He wasn’t. In fact, he was quite the opposite. Gentle, polite and kind - here’s what the legend himself had to say…

 

 

Who inspired you to be a chef, was it your father? [Michel Roux, with his brother Albert, opened the first three Michelin-starred restaurant
in Britain,
Le Gavroche, and The Waterside Inn.]

No, it was my mum’s mum, my grandma – she was a fabulous cook. She had a wonderful garden were she kept chickens and rabbits. Being in the kitchen, watching her prepare meals for the family, then enjoying them 

all together in the countryside – that’s what made me decide to become
a chef. I realised all the hard work that went into making a family meal was worth it.

 

How did you get to where you are now?

I worked for eight years in France, in five Relais & Chateaux kitchens, learning a variety of cooking styles, and also did a couple of years in pastry. I also spent a year in military service while there. I was lucky enough to cook at the Elysee Palace where Francois Mitterand was the President of France.

   When I returned to England, I joined my dad in the kitchen at The Waterside Inn. I can honestly say it was my biggest challenge yet. We didn’t know each other that well as father and son, so working together was quite a shock! It took a few years for us to get used to. I took over
from him in 2002 and I hope I have done him proud. I think he is
pleased with me – well, most of the time. He wishes he could carry on
as things were years ago. His passion is to be at the helm of the kitchen.

 

 

 

Tell us about The Waterside Inn…

At the Waterside Inn people pay for the experience. And I, like my
father, love to cook for them. It is a restaurant with rooms and is
very picturesque. 

  We offer impeccable service. Our director and general manager
Diego is front of house – he is one of the best, if not the best host in
the country and world. He will make you feel at home. People come
here for good service and we make sure they get it. We are not stuffy or posh. We are friendly, and people share their passions and personality with us. All our guests are important, but we are especially proud to
cater for the Royal family, including the Queen. Yet everyday people
who dine here are kings and queens in our eyes. 
And of course, we
offer good food…

 

Of course. So what’s on the menu today?

At the moment our menu changes daily. We offer a light lunch menu that’s good value for money. It is more simple than the a la carte menu. You can have two courses for £40.50, or three courses for £59.50 – it’s a little more on a weekend.

   For lunch, you could try spinach soup flavoured with sorrel from my garden, with a small soft poached egg, then braised pork cheeks with croquet potatoes and root vegetables, or marinated slices of scallops with smoked salmon and 'Royal Belgian' caviar and oyster sauce with lemon, and for dessert pistachio crème brûlée with vanilla ice cream.

   For dinner, one option is terrine of pressed foie gras and supreme of guinea fowl with truffle and young red chard salad leaves then guinea fowl with roasted mushrooms and sliced leeks. I cook it on the crown as
it is more moist that way. For dessert, try the warm golden plum soufflé.

 

Mmm, my mouth is watering. What’s your favourite dish?

I like to stick with seasonal ingredients as they’re the best on the market. And it’s important to use good suppliers. My favourite dish ever has to be fresh black truffle from France, in the early winter months.

 

Do you have any tips for our readers on how to be a good cook?

There is no big secret to being a good cook – it simply takes practice and time, which I know most mums don’t have. It is hard work to cook your own food but it is worth it. You can cook to your own tastes. And if you make home-made chicken nuggets, you know what’s in them – just chicken and bread. 

 

Are you keen to teach children to take an interest in food?

Yes, I think it’s important to encourage children to understand what they’re eating. I’m part of the Academy of Culinary Arts. All the best
people in my trade are a member of it. Through this, I am part of
the Chefs Adopt a School charity. I go into schools and give my time, knowledge and passion of food to children. I have been to Manor Green School and Braywick Montessori School in Maidenead. We also helped at the opening of Oldfield School.

   Children are very interested in food and cooking. And it’s good to teach them to respect food, eat healthily and enjoy a meal all together at the table. I tell youngsters that French beans are green French fries! I’m not too sure they believe me.

 

 

 

Do you and your family like living here and what’s on offer?

We love it round here. We have lived here for more than 20 years. We are lucky to be close to London and Heathrow, but also in the country. My wife and little boy are currently at Odds Farm for their weekly visit. Having a young family has changed my life and made dining out not so easy, as I’m sure your readers can appreciate. But I do still enjoy the restaurants in Bray. You have Heston Blumenthal’s, Italian Caldesi, and I like Sir Michael Parkinson’s Royal Oak in Maidenhead and the Hand & Flowers in Marlow. Oh, and I love a Maliks.

 

Have you ever had a disaster in the kitchen?

We did once have a catastrophe! We had a power cut on a Saturday
night. The whole village was in the dark and there was nothing we could do about it – we had to deal with the fact we had no electricity. Our restaurant was full and we had to serve cold food. Our menu changed dramatically in minutes. But everyone was fed – no one went hungry.
We like a challenge!

 

What are you plans for the future?

I intend to carry on doing what I’m doing. And if my children want to become chefs and continue the Roux legacy, then they shall have to
start by peeling potatoes and washing up, like I did. This will never be
a one-man show, and I intend to keep a brilliant team. We have a great reputation because of the people in the kitchen with me. We are all constantly learning, progressing and evolving so that our customers
keep coming back!

 

For more information, visit www.waterside-inn.co.uk.

 

'We did once have a catastrophe! We had a power cut on a Saturday night'

'Working with my dad was my biggest challenge - we didn't know each other'

Next time:
 interview with
Tom Kerridge
from the Hand
& Flowers

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